monochromatic wave train propagates over a uniform slope of 1/20. At water depth of 100 m, the wave amplitude �/ = 0.5 m and the wave period �/ = 10 s. (a) Plot the following physical variables along the slope: wave slope (��), the phase velocity, the group velocity and the dynamic pressure on the bottom, where � is the wave number and � is the wave amplitude. (b) Plot the Ursell number Ur = (� ℎ)/(�ℎ)8 along the slope. Where does the linear wave theory break down? Please explain
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